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All the same, it's hard to ignore the haunting sounds of the call-to-prayer echoing through the streets.The squat multi-domed Al-Jabr mosque (15), in the new souk, between Al Mahmal St and Al Jabr St, can be appreciated from the adjoining car park on Ali Bin Abdullah St.TOUCH DOWN Doha's airport (1) is served from Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester by Qatar Airways (08; and British Airways (08; com), and via Dubai from Heathrow, Gatwick, Birmingham, Manchester and Glasgow on Emirates (08; British citizens are asked for a credit card with their passport at immigration desks and visas are quickly processed (price 100 rials (QR), or £15) and valid for one month.Somewhat of a construction site, the sparse city has pockets of pulsating life in its bustling souks and along the attractive Corniche that curves around the beautiful bay.The airport (1) is at the eastern end, the souks in the centre, and the Sheraton (2), Four Seasons (3) and City Centre mall (4) at the western end.While the bar-staff are particularly proud of their whisky menu, including 30-year-old Glenfiddich, their Vodka Martinis are also outstanding, as are the mouthwatering rosemary-roasted potato wedges with truffle mayonnaise.

For a more casual local experience try the tasty thyme pies (a bit like pizza; three for 6QR/90p), washed down with mint tea at Al Khariss (14) ( 954; 10am-11pm, from 3pm Friday), in a beautiful sandstone building on a bustling lane in Souq Waqif (13).Taxis are cheap, but rare; hotel limos are twice the price. CHECK IN The sumptuous Four Seasons Hotel (3) in West Bay (00 9; is the city's most lavish, with sweeping staircases, plush furnishings, and a stylish spa.Opulent doubles from 1600QR (£225) have exquisite sea views and include an expansive breakfast.It's also one of the few souks in the region where you'll see artisans working.Goldsmiths sit cross-legged on the floors in tiny shops hammering out intricate pieces while makers of ouds (Arabian lutes) discuss which wood to use for the instrument.

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